BECOME A CLEANING MACHINE
SALON UPKEEP
KEY TO SUCCESS
by Nikki Brand
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Keep
clients happy and protect your equipment investment by following a
detailed maintenance and cleaning schedule.
Ever
had a sunbed go down on a busy day during peak season? It wasn’t fun,
was it? Turns out, dust isn’t just unsightly, it can also affect how
your equipment functions. Good maintenance practices can prevent
costly repairs while keeping your tanners happy. So, grab a dust cloth
and your tools and get your rear in gear!
Your best intentions won’t keep improper
cleaning supplies from actually ruining your equipment. Don’t use
over-the-counter products for convenience or to save a buck. Buy
disinfectant cleaners designated for cleaning sunbeds and acrylics
from your tanning supply distributor. Store bought products, like
glass cleaners, contain ingredients that can cause a chemical reaction
and make acrylic shields cloudy – therefore blocking the transmission
of UV light. In fact, leaving products like baby wipes in the rooms as
a courtesy for tanners can be a bad idea – they might decide to clean
the unit themselves and the ingredients in the wipes will also cloud
the acrylics. Follow the instructions for mixing your disinfectant
solution, if mixing is necessary, and use it between each session to
clean everything the tanner comes into contact with – the acrylics,
the canopy or booth handle, the pillow, and the chair. Always use a
lint-free cloth to clean, as even soft-feeling paper towels are made
of wood pulp that can scratch acrylics. Although you’ll probably want
to clean the towels your clients use with liquid fabric softener/dryer
sheets so they are soft, skip the softener when washing your cleaning
towels to increase absorbency. Don’t let your staff get sloppy when
the salon is busy – thoroughly clean sunbed acrylics so that tingle
lotion doesn’t linger from a previous tanner and irritate the next
client’s skin.
Clients should be able to tell their tanning
room is spic and span as soon as they enter it. Empty trashcans
between sessions and make sure the floor is clean. Wipe up tile floors
with a cloth and especially watch for lotion spills that could make
the floor slippery. If you can’t use a hand vac on carpet or rugs
between sessions, use a lint brush or roller to capture sock fuzz,
strings and hair. It only takes a few seconds! Wipe door handles if
greasy from lotion and check the walls for lotion squirts. Being
attentive to the appearance of the entire salon will pay off, too.
There should never be a moment when your staff if bored; there’s
always something to clean in the lobby, hallways, bathroom, or even
just keeping fingerprints off the front door!
More time-consuming and heavy duty cleaning
can be done at the end of the day. Use a sponge to clean the exterior
of the tanning units with a 70/30 mixture of warm water and ammonia to
remove dust and dirt that settles on the equipment during the day.
Make sure to wring out the sponge well before using, so water doesn’t
drip into the electrical circuitry of the equipment. All-purpose
cleaner should be used to remove any lotion from the lamp screens in
stand-up units, as it will harden and become difficult to clean. Make
sure employees know how to remove the lamp screens, as they might need
to use some glass cleaner and a soft cloth to wipe lotion off the
lamps. Stand-up dressing rooms can be washed down with the
ammonia/water solution. Now that there’s more time, thoroughly mop or
vacuum the floors of the rooms and use spot cleaner for stains on rugs
or carpeting.
A good way to keep an equipment maintenance
routine is to coordinate it with your lamp schedule. Deep cleaning
should take place four times during the life of your lamps: at 100-150
hours (remove and clean/polish the acrylics on both sides, wipe lamps
and interior with damp cloth), at 300-350 hours (deep-cleaning and
re-install lamps), at 500-550 hours (same procedure as 100-150 hours),
and at 600 hours (deep-clean and complete lamp change). A good rule of
thumb for changing lamps is to change them at two-thirds of their
recommended life. Salon software can track lamp hours and help
schedule the next cleaning.
There are many steps to thoroughly cleaning
the inside of equipment. Here are some suggested procedures for
keeping tanning systems clean and in peak operating condition:
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Before deep-cleaning any equipment interior,
turn off the tanning unit at the circuit breaker box.
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Remove the acrylic shields (or lamp screens,
in stand-ups) and sunlamps. The cardboard material used in sunlamp
packaging can be saved and used to carefully stack the lamps.
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Clean the acrylics (both sides) with an
approved cleaner and then polish them using an acrylic polish and
set them aside.
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Remove stand-up lamp screens and clean them
with the ammonia/water mixture.
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Using a hand-vacuum and soft bristle brush
attachment, clean out dust, dirt and hair from the exhaust fans and
reflective materials and carefully vac around the lamp sockets, too.
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To be even more thorough, use a dampened
cotton swab to remove lingering dust from crevices and around lamp
sockets.
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Check lamp sockets and connections for signs
of wear and damage and make replacements as needed.
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Clean filters and ballast trays.
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If the sunbed bench and canopy are separate
pieces, turn the bench on its side and thoroughly clean and vacuum
the bottom of the bench, fans, and anything that looks dirty.
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While doing all the nitty-gritty cleaning,
pull the sunbed away from the wall and vacuum/mop the floors, dust
the baseboards and wash the walls at the ends of the bed.
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Spray some glass cleaner on a clean,
lint-free cloth and wipe the reflective material until it shines.
(Do not spray cleaner directly onto the sunbed, spray it onto the
cloth.)
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Clean the gas springs as oil, dust and dirt
can settle on and around them.
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Get the clean, lint-free cloth moderately
damp with glass cleaner and wipe new or old lamps from end to end –
one at a time – before placing them back into the sunbed. (Don’t
clean all of them at once because dust could settle on them while
waiting to be installed.)
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Run a tanning unit with new lamps for 10
minutes before metering output.
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Before replacing the acrylics, measure the
sunlamps’ UV output by holding the meter two inches above the lamp
surface at three separate points: at the center, and 10 inches from
both ends of each lamp. (The reading should be taken at a position
on the lamp that has reflective material behind it. A reading done
at a position near a ventilation hole will not be a true one.)
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Reinstall the acrylic shields or lamp
screens.
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Measure the output of each sunlamp again. If
the UV transmission drops below 10 percent of the reading taken with
the acrylics off, then the acrylics need to be replaced.
It’s best to have a few replacement parts on
hand if repairs are needed in a pinch. Having a sunbed down for even a
day while waiting for a part to be shipped overnight is costly. Some
items to keep in stock are:
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Ballast(s)
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Lamp socket
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Capacitor
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Contactor
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Starter
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Ignitor
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Relay
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Terminal block
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Acrylic shield
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Lamps
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Facial glass
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Timer mechanisms
These maintenance routines can keep your
equipment and salon in tip-top condition and sparking clean, which
means happy tanners…which means more sales…it’s a win-win!
A Little TLC Helps Acrylics
Without good acrylics, clients will complain
they aren’t achieving the tan they desire. And if acrylics aren’t
properly maintained, you will be shelling out a lot of money –
replacing them more often than you should. Follow these simple tips
for maintaining acrylic quality.
Much like a sunlamp, an acrylic shield has a
“life span.” After about 2,500-3,000 hours of use, it’s usually time
to replace the shield even if it doesn’t appear to be damaged. One
easy way to tell if a sunbed’s acrylics need to be replaced is if the
cut edge of the shield appears to have a slight yellow tinge.
A UVB light meter can be used to monitor an
acrylic shield’s deterioration. Use the meter to take a reading when
the acrylic and sunlamps are new. At regular intervals, measure the
UVB output with the acrylics both on and off the bed, and compare the
results. If there is a difference of 10 percent or more, then it’s
time to get new acrylics.
It’s best to use 100-percent cotton cloths for
cleaning your acrylic shields between tanners. Paper towels are made
from wood pulp, which can scratch the acrylic’s surface. Remember to
use a different cloth for each sunbed to avoid the risk of
cross-contamination.
Only use disinfectants/cleaners that are
designed for sunbed acrylic shields. Store-bought glass cleaners and
similar solutions will scratch the shield and produce a chemical
reaction that makes it cloudy, which will block UV transmission.
When cleaning the acrylic shields between
tanning sessions, use the “double spray, double wipe” method. Spray
the sunbed with the acrylic cleaner, wipe, and repeat. This will
insure that all harmful bacteria, fungi, and viruses that could be
present are destroyed. UVA and UVB light kill only some bacteria –
but not disease-producing bacteria.
Remember to remove the sunbed pillow and clean
it after each session, as well as the place on the shield where the
pillow lays. Vinyl sunbed pillows tend to trap heat, which can cause
the acrylic directly underneath to overheat and become damaged.
Removing the pillow from the bed to clean it will release some of that
heat.
If a shield becomes scratched, polish it with
a product made specifically for the indoor tanning industry. These
polishes can also be used regularly to help strengthen the acrylic,
and should be applied using a cloth towel, not a paper towel.
Install sunbed fans correctly and frequently
check them. If they aren’t working properly, excess heat could build
up inside the sunbed and lead to acrylic degradation, or damage to
components inside the bed (not to mention tanner discomfort).
If you believe a bed needs new or extra
acrylic supports, order them! The acrylic will experience less stress
with the supports in place, and you will have peace of mind.
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